My last full afternoon in Athens was spent at the Athenian or Ancient Agora (not to be confused with the Roman Agora which I did not visit). It was the heart of ancient Athens where supposedly democracy first sprang to life, as the social, political and commercial hub of the city, a meeting place and a site of temples and of shops.
The Cathedral has a number of names including the Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary. It’s the principal Greek Orthodox church in Athens and is the seat of the Archbishop of Athens and All Greece. Building began on Christmas Day in 1842 using marble from 72 demolished churches.
I didn’t know a great deal about Maria Callas before visiting this museum but I did know that my dad was a fan and since it was very close to the hotel where I was staying and had a very eye catching frontage I decided to pay a visit. (I’ve also since seen the film Maria with Angelina Jolie as Maria Callas which I’d recommend). The museum which is the first dedicated to the singer was opened in 2023 and can be found at 44 Mitropoleos Street, opposite Athens Cathedral.
After I’d visited the Benaki Museum I headed practically round the corner in order to go to the Museum of Cycladic Art. Cycladic refers to the islands of the Cyclades in the Aegean Sea and the culture dates from roughly 3200 BCE to 1050 BCE. The collection was brought together by Nicholas Goulandris, a shipping magnate and his wife Dolly. It is one of the most complete collections of Cycladic art in the world.
The Benaki Museum started as the private collection of Antonis Benakis, a wealthy cotton merchant, and is housed in the family’s original neoclassical home. Antonis and his three sisters donated it to Greece in 1930. The museum contains thousands of exhibits tracing Greek culture from the prehistoric to the modern age.
Kerameikos hadn’t been on my radar when I was researching things I might like to do in Athens but my hotel provided a handy map and list of things to do in the area that recommended the site so I decided to check it out and was very glad I did.
I’d spotted a sign for the Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum on my way from the Acropolis down to the Acropolis Museum and decided it was just the kind of place I’d like to visit that afternoon to keep out of the sun. I knew absolutely nothing about the museum and had never heard of Ilias Lalaounis but I found the museum to be excellent with many beautiful items on display.
The Acropolis Museum is an easy walk downhill from the Acropolis and it makes sense to do one after the other if you have the time. During the summer season (1 April – 31 October) tickets cost €15 and can be bought in advance but as I didn’t know how long I was going to be at the Acropolis I settled for buying when I was there. Do note that your bag goes through an x-ray scanner at the entrance and large bags will have to be placed in the cloakroom.
In early October I headed to London to attend a couple of exhibitions, one of which was this exploration of the life of Ranjit Singh. I’m on the Wallace Collection‘s email list and it sounded like an interesting exhibition on a subject I know nothing about though I’m not sure I knew a great deal more than I did before. I’ve been to a few paid exhibitions at the Wallace Collection now and while they have interesting items on display I never feel they go into a great deal of depth about the subject matter. Still, I did learn more while researching this post so I suppose that’s something!
The National (as it’s recently been renamed) was another one of the those places I hadn’t managed to get to on my previous visit to the city so I made sure to pop in this time. I arrived in Edinburgh just at the right time as they had recently revamped the building with newly opened galleries specifically to highlight Scottish artists in their collection which I was particularly eager to see. Free to enter the gallery can be found just off Princes Street by the Scott Monument.
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