Greece

Athens Round-up

A random round up of Athens things and places:

Do not underestimate the temperatures. Super obvious but I chose to travel mid May hoping that the weather would be a little cooler than the height of summer, which of course it was, but only because summer in Athens that year hit record breaking highs and many of the outdoor sites including the Acropolis shut down to visitors. This was perhaps unusual, though with climate change it’s probably the new normal. The temperature while I was there was in the 28-29C range the whole time and didn’t really let up even in the afternoon/late evenings. I had the idea that I’d do outdoor sites early in the morning and then in the afternoon when it was cooler but soon gave up on that idea and was just careful about keeping to the shade where possible.

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Statues of Athens

As ever, whenever I’m in a new city I take pictures of anything that strikes me as interesting and then I go and research it later. This post rounds up all those random statues I photographed around Athens. The first is that of Yannis Makriyannis. Located not far from the southeast entrance of the Acropolis, though tucked away a little bit in the corner of a small grassy area, this statue is of one of the men who fought for Greek independence in the 1820s. He also is known at least in Greece for his memoirs which were notable for being written in Demotic Greek, the standard spoken language of modern Greece. It translates as language of the people.

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Evzones at the Presidential Mansion and Unknown Soldier Square, Athens

Historically the Evzones were light infantry units in the Greek army, today they are members of the Presidential Guard. They stand guard at both the Presidential Mansion and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. I knew that they do changing of the guard ceremonies and I wasn’t particularly interested about going out of my way to see them but after leaving the Panathenaic Stadium I happened to come across one such ceremony outside of the Presidential Mansion.

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Hadrian’s Library, Athens

Hadrian’s Library was created by the Roman Emperor Hadrian in 132 AD to the north of the Acropolis. Having spent a long time at the Athenian Agora that day as I wandered through the streets of Athens doing a bit of souvenir shopping I hesitated at the library entrance but ultimately decided that I was both a bit too hot and a bit too ancient monument fatigued to pay the entrance fee and go inside. What I did do was take some photos as I was walking by.

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The Athenian Agora and Stoa of Attalos, Athens

My last full afternoon in Athens was spent at the Athenian or Ancient Agora (not to be confused with the Roman Agora which I did not visit). It was the heart of ancient Athens where supposedly democracy first sprang to life, as the social, political and commercial hub of the city, a meeting place and a site of temples and of shops.

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The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, Athens

Another small church on Ermou Street, the heart of a popular shopping district, is the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea. Panagia as we’ve already seen relates to the Virgin Mary but more interestingly Kapnikarea relates to either the tax collector responsible for the church or the tax on residential buildings that produced smoke from cooking nearby. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary this church actually belongs to the University of Athens.

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The Church of Panagia Pantanassa, Athens

The Church of Panagia Pantanassa is another one of those tiny churches that you could almost but not quite blink and miss it. One of the oldest churches in Athens its name come from the Greek for the Virgin Mary. It has some confused origins, either dating from the 7th or the 9th century depending on which source you trust. Located at Monastiraki Square, one of the busiest areas of Athens, it was curious to see how few people were paying attention to it – now lower than the ground level it initially would have dominated this part of the city.

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Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens

The Cathedral has a number of names including the Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary. It’s the principal Greek Orthodox church in Athens and is the seat of the Archbishop of Athens and All Greece. Building began on Christmas Day in 1842 using marble from 72 demolished churches.

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Church of Agia Dynami, Athens

On my last full day in Athens I decided that it was about time that I explored some of the city’s churches. My first of these was Agia Dynami partly because it was nestled under the Electra Metropolis Hotel and I could see it from my hotel balcony. The Greek Church leased the property to the hotel franchise in 2016.

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The Maria Callas Museum, Athens

I didn’t know a great deal about Maria Callas before visiting this museum but I did know that my dad was a fan and since it was very close to the hotel where I was staying and had a very eye catching frontage I decided to pay a visit. (I’ve also since seen the film Maria with Angelina Jolie as Maria Callas which I’d recommend). The museum which is the first dedicated to the singer was opened in 2023 and can be found at 44 Mitropoleos Street, opposite Athens Cathedral.

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