Another small church on Ermou Street, the heart of a popular shopping district, is the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea. Panagia as we’ve already seen relates to the Virgin Mary but more interestingly Kapnikarea relates to either the tax collector responsible for the church or the tax on residential buildings that produced smoke from cooking nearby. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary this church actually belongs to the University of Athens.
Dating to the 11th century the interior, like all the churches I visited in Athens, are chock full of mosaics and frescoes on every conceivable surface. It was built over an ancient Greek temple, possibly one dedicated to Athena.
It’s really a beautiful church and certainly the busiest one I visited. Entry was free though donations are welcome. And again, cover up when entering.
Louise Jayne's Blog 